Pavers are an easy way to add curb appeal through an attractive walkway or patio. Lang Stone has the most extensive selection of paver shapes, sizes and colors, allowing you to create the most unique paver walkway, patio or driveway.
Tools & Materials Checklist
- Four foot level
- Two measuring tapes
- Ground stabilization mat
- Wooden stakes
- Wide blade mason’s chisel
- Mason’s string (twine)
- Stiff bristle street broom
- 3-5 pound hammer
- Hard tool garden rake
- 1” diameter sand screed guides (pipe, wood, etc.)
- 12” x3/8” steel spikes
- Pry bar
- Mason diamond saw or paver splitter
- 3hp to 5 hp plate compactor
- Flat shovel
- Crushed stone (304’s, B-19)
- Coarse, dry mason sand
- Border material (snap edge, pavedge)
- Joint sand
Determining How Many Pavers You Need
1. Determine the size of the area that you wish to cover with pavers. It helps to lay out is dimensions using a long clothes line.
2. Multiply the width in feet by the length in feet to determine the size in square feet.
________ feet x _______ feet = ______ square feet
3. Measure the length in feet of the open edges. These are the sections that are not touching a permanent structure, such as your home. This shows you the linear feet of border stone you need.
4. Take the measurements with you to select your pavers and borders.
Note: Lang Stone can use your measurements to determine the amount of pavers you need.
The borders can be made of stone, metal or plastic.
Installing Your Pavers
1. To establish parallel lines and 90-degree corners, measure 3’‘ along a straight line, such as the house. Then, using two measuring tapes and an assistant, measure 4’ from one end of the 3 foot line and 5’ from the other end.
Put a stake in the ground where the two marks meet. (For large patios or driveways, double this to 6, 8 and 10’.) The angle that’s opposite the 5 foot side is 90 degrees.
With a string line, extend the 4’ side of the triangle out to establish the width. Drive stakes every 1 to 2’ and at the corners 8 “ outside of the paver edge.
2. To establish a slope that allows adequate drainage, the drop away from the house should be no less than ⅛” per foot and no more than ½” per foot. Set your level on a long straight 2X4, marking the slope on the stakes.
3. Excavate the area, following the stake marking and use a flat shovel to remove sod and dirt, at least 10” deep. This depth allows for 2⅜“ deep. This depth allows for a 2⅜“ paver (6 cm), 1 ½” coarse sand, and 4” to 6” of compacted crushed stone base. Cover the area with a ground stabilzation mat.
4. Create the base using #304 crushed limestone (sometimes called B-19). This is a 1½” crushed limestone to dust. Smooth out by dragging along a 2X4 board over the area until the high spots are corrected. Then spray with water and compact with a rent compactor. Remember, the strength of the material lies in the base below it.
5. Nail down the edge restraints. Lang Stone will give you specific instructions for your choice among plastic, metal or stone edgings.
6. Add sand. Use a rigid 1 to 1½” strip of wood, plastic or metal to screed the sand smoothly. Work in sections, adding pavers, before moving on.
7. Starting from a permanent 90 degree corner, lightly set the first paver on the sand. Work from the right to left, then left to right, setting one row of pavers at a time. (Lang Stone can explain your pattern options when you purchase pavers.) Set the pavers tightly, by hand. If you find the pattern getting out of line, go back three to four rows, adjusting as necessary with a screwdriver. use a string to line up rows. Cover the area with plastic if rain is predicted before completion.
8. If you need to cut pavers to fill in gaps, mark the stones with chalk, allowing for a ¼” gap between the stone and the edge. Cut with a diamond blade mason saw, a paver splitter, or a hammer and chisel.
Wear safety goggles when cutting pavers. Get detailed instructions on diamond blad mason saw operation before using it.
9. When you’ve finished laying the pavers, sweep the project clean. Repeatedly use a plate compactor in multiple sweeps over the area, starting with the outermost sections. A hammer and wood block can be used for hard-to-reach sections.
10. With a broom, sweep jointing sand into the gaps. Vibrate the surface again, repeating as needed to fill in the joints.